sewing pattern knowledge
What is a pattern?
For cutting the fabric, templates are needed, which are used to transfer the actual cut shapes onto the material. The respective paper templates for the individual shaped parts, which are essential for precise cutting, form the so-called cutting pattern. The two-dimensional cutting pattern, in all its individual parts, therefore represents the three-dimensional sewing project, broken down into its various parts. Usually, as is the case with cutting patterns for clothing, several sizes are shown and offered at the same time.
Illustrated sewing pattern instructions have been around since the 18th century. These greatly reduced drawings for cutting and the corresponding instructions were mainly found in books and newspapers. They are considered the intellectual forerunners of today's sewing pattern sheets.
This was followed by the actual-size patterns. These were printed on thin paper for cost and economy reasons. This was soon followed by pattern sheets and sheets printed on both sides. The pattern pieces of the individual variants are printed overlapping on the front and back. This is possible because line patterns that are easily distinguishable from one another are used. As a result, the pattern pieces have to be transferred to new pattern paper using the toothed copy wheel, for example, because the many variants would otherwise become unusable if the pattern was cut up.
How are patterns used?
There are various ways to transfer a pattern. A very common method is to transfer the pattern to the fabric using a tracing wheel or cutting wheel and then cut it out. This does not destroy the pattern sheet and it can be reused. Once the cut has been placed on the fabric so that all the pieces fit and the thread and pattern are aligned correctly, the contour lines of the pattern pieces are traced on the pattern sheet using a serrated tracing wheel or cutting wheel. The pattern sheet is removed and the small holes that are now in the fabric show the contour for the fabric cut.
Another option is to transfer the selected variation from the pattern sheet to a new pattern paper or copy paper using a cutting or copy wheel and then cut this out. Alternatively, the pattern can be cut out of the sheet straight away, although this can result in other variations and sizes being lost. These paper cuts of the individual shaped parts are then attached to the fabric using pins and transferred to the fabric using tailor's chalk, or, depending on your dexterity, you can cut them out straight away using the paper template.
What types of sewing patterns are there?
What is a single cut pattern?
In addition to the pattern sheets with several variants, there are also individual or ready-made patterns. They contain the cutting instructions, the model and sewing image with step-by-step instructions and the pattern sheet. The respective pattern pieces can be cut out of the pattern sheet in the desired size and used immediately.
What are pattern sheets?
Pattern sheets Patterns contain several models and variants. They are often part of booklets, magazines and books. To save space and money, several cuts are printed on both sides of the sheets. The individual cut pieces are arranged as compactly as possible to increase the number of variants. As a result, there are unavoidable overlaps, which is why not all pieces can simply be cut out. The procedure is actually different. In order to make the cut usable for the desired item of clothing, so-called copy paper is used for tracing. Alternatively, tissue paper, pattern paper cuts or suitable foil can be used. In order to keep the cut pieces apart and to identify the corresponding cutting and contour lines, these are usually numbered and different types of lines are used, such as dotted, dashed or solid and so on. Different colors are also often used to identify the lines. All of this makes tracing and applying to the fabric easier and helps with understanding the cut.
Depending on the pattern, additional auxiliary lines are also marked in the pattern for a better understanding. These can be, for example, center lines in the pattern pieces or marked places for cutting. They often also contain very short lines called notches or gussets. These are usually at a 90° angle and are usually opposite each other to mark a fold or folding edge. There are also often break lines in the pattern. To prevent accidental tearing, these lines are not drawn all the way to the edge. Some patterns also use quilting templates to mark a seam that is in the middle of the pattern piece. These templates are used for transferring and not for cutting. There are also often markings for facings, which are made by folding the fabric several times.
In order to transfer the cutting lines and thus the cut and, if necessary, the seam lines onto the fabric, we recommend using tailor's chalk or the tracing wheel or cutting wheel.
Discover suitable sewing accessories from Prym here!
