Materials Science - Sweat
What is sweatshirt fabric and what properties do sweatshirt fabrics have?
Sweatshirt fabric is a knitted fabric. Therefore, sweatshirt fabric is not woven but knitted, which is why it has such good stretch and elasticity. As a knitted fabric, sweatshirt fabric is characterized by its interlocking small loops. The stitches run parallel to the selvedge. Compared to other knitted fabrics, such as jersey, sweatshirt fabric has an additional knitted lining thread on the reverse side, which, depending on the manufacturing process, is brushed, giving the fabric a wonderfully soft and fluffy feel. Due to its manufacturing process, sweatshirt fabric is usually somewhat heavier and less elastic than other knitted fabrics. Cotton is most commonly used as the base material in its production. This natural fiber gives the fabric its stability while also making it breathable, skin-friendly, and absorbent. To provide additional elasticity, so-called blends of cotton and elastane are used. This has the advantage that the material returns to its original shape after being stretched. Sweatshirt fabrics thus offer the high freedom of movement that is so highly valued in sports and leisure activities. Thanks to the roughened back, the material not only feels thicker, but also retains heat well inside the textile.
For which DIY sewing projects is sweatshirt fabric suitable?
Sweatshirt fabric is particularly suitable for making warm and cozy sportswear and leisurewear. Some of the most popular DIY sewing projects using this material include:
- Collage Jackets
- Jogging suits
- Hooded jackets
- Dresses
- Sweatshirts
- Sweat jackets
- Sweatpants
- Training trousers
- Track jackets
- Children's clothing
What types of sweatshirt fabric are there?
There are differences in the processing of sweatshirt fabrics, which is why they can generally be divided into the following types:
Summer sweat
Summer sweat, also known as French terry, refers to a lightweight sweatshirt fabric. Its thinner and lighter construction makes it ideal for summer, as it wicks away moisture well, is breathable, and retains only moderate heat. This type of sweatshirt fabric is therefore well-suited and very comfortable to wear in summer.
Winter sweat
Winter sweatshirt fabric, or regular sweatshirt fabric, is heavier than summer sweatshirt fabric because it's much thicker and cozier. It's ideal for autumn, winter, and cozy clothing because it's so comfortable and feels wonderfully soft.
Alpine fleece
In this variation, the sweatshirt fabric is lined with fleece on the inside. This makes it much warmer, cozier, and softer than regular sweatshirt fabric. Alpenfleece is ideal for items such as throw blankets, cardigans, hats, scarves, and hoodies.
How is sweatshirt fabric cared for and processed?
What do you need to consider when sewing with sweatshirt fabric sold by the meter?
Before processing, it's important to pre-wash the fabric, as the high cotton content can cause some shrinkage, making the first wash before sewing crucial. As with knit fabrics, it's recommended to use a jersey or stretch needle when sewing sweatshirt fabric sold by the meter. Otherwise, unsightly holes can appear in the fabric if the small loops are damaged or, in the worst case, cut by a sharp needle without a specially rounded head. Using a needle with a ballpoint or rounded tip will only displace or shift the loops, rather than damaging or destroying them. The correct needle size depends on the thickness of the sweatshirt fabric. The material has stretch and elasticity, requiring a seam that can accommodate this stretch; otherwise, the seam could tear. If your sewing machine doesn't offer an elastic stitch option, such as a triple straight stitch, a short zigzag stitch (e.g., 1.5mm to 2mm) or a straight stitch with a low upper thread tension (e.g., 2 or 3) is best. An elastic stitch, such as a zigzag or pseudo-overlock stitch (if available), should be used, or ideally, an overlock machine should be used. Regarding finishing the edges, sweatshirt fabric doesn't fray much. However, for a great look, a nice feel, and an industrial-style finish, the hems can be finished with a twin needle to prevent them from curling. Generally, when sewing with this material, it's advisable to reduce the presser foot pressure on your sewing machine.
What should be considered when caring for sweat fabric?
For washing, it is recommended to wash at 30°C to protect the material and colors, and to avoid using bleach. Sweatshirt fabrics can be ironed on low heat and preferably without steam. Due to the high cotton content, tumble drying should be avoided. Ideally, the garment should be dried flat to prevent shrinkage and maintain its shape.
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